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Forget Rome: all roads lead to Antwerp. Fashion, art and lifestyle are some of the city’s hottest attractions, drawing in an international crowd of trendsetters. Narelle Doré — a chatty and friendly Perth native — is part of a new Antwerp generation, which is mostly composed of foreigners, such as Helena Lumelsky, Heaven Tanudiredja and Mikio Sakabe.
Narelle loves craft and beautiful design. Her pieces are timeless and ageless, celebrating female strength without the aggression. Her use of patchwork techniques was impressive and her suede and leather pieces were winners. Narelle loves softness and relaxed elegance. There’s something humble and comforting about her clothes.
Ra — Antwerp’s edgiest fashion store and a meeting point for cool creative types — asked her to come up with an in-store installation, including Frederik Heyman’s striking photographs of her collection. Philippe Pourhashemi writes.
Oyster: How did you get into fashion?
Narelle: I studied fashion and textiles in Australia. Then I moved to London and worked as a florist to make money. I managed to get an internship with Walter Von Beirendonck in Antwerp and decided to come here. That was eight years ago. I was always around fashion students and teachers, so I guess the logical step for me was to apply for a place at the Academy. I got in, which was cool, and graduated two years ago.
Oyster: What did you want to do after graduation?
Narelle: Well, I felt really exhausted after the Academy. I think I also took it far too seriously and personally. It was a very extreme experience. I only wanted to make normal things, like white button up shirts that had no volume. During the course, we were always asked to think bigger, exaggerate things and you couldn’t show an outfit without at least three layers there. Looking back upon it, I totally understand where that was coming from, because it pushes you to challenge yourself creatively.
Oyster: Sounds like you had severe fashion overload.
Narelle: Yes, I did. I just wanted to design something that felt simple and more commercial. I worked as a freelance designer for a fashion company that was based in Barcelona, doing their womenswear line for four seasons. Now, I feel there’s a change in me and I’m willing to explore other things, beyond the mere commercial aspect.
Oyster: When did you start working on your own collection?
Narelle: I went back to Australia last year for three months and that trip really triggered something. I stayed with my parents and it felt really nice being around family and having someone look after me. I don’t know what it was, something awoke inside of me and starting my own collection really made sense.
Oyster: Was it like some sort of calling?
Narelle: Maybe, yes. I felt very relaxed and ideas could flow easily. Ra picked my collection for their Paris showroom last January and now I’m having this installation in the store. I’ve also sold some pieces, which is great.
Oyster: Will you be part of Ra’s next Paris showroom in October?
Narelle: Yes, I will.
Oyster: Can you tell me more about your collection?
Narelle: I used crochet and patchwork on a lot of pieces. Everything was hand finished. The knitwear pieces have a very open feeling to them, almost like accessories. I used brushed wool and fluffy angora. The tailored pieces are cotton-lined and the shapes are really easy to wear.
Oyster: Is craftsmanship important for you?
Narelle: Yes, it is. I decided to include an actual pattern of one of my designs in the installation, just to encourage people to make something themselves. You can buy it and make it in your own size. It feels more personal that way than putting another DVD or magazine there. A lot of fashion titles have gone online now, but I love paper and wanted the installation to have that human touch.
Oyster: Your knitwear is really great. Is that one of your favourite things?
Narelle: I guess it is and that’s one of the aspects I really want to develop. There’s something so beautiful about yarns and it creates a special atmosphere.
Oyster: Do you like living in Antwerp?
Narellle: Yes, I do. It has that village feeling that I like, even though it’d be nice sometimes being able to go buy milk without bumping into a thousand people. When I lived in London, some parts of the city felt like small villages, but you also had the anonymity there. You could be grumpy and no one cares.
