fashion by the zodiac

We were having the Versace starfish vs seahorse debate in the office this morning (naturally) and I came to realize that many designers have been inspired by the ocean for their spring collections. As I pondered aloud the aquatic inclinations of McQueen, Chanel and even Giorgio Armani, the (mostly female) team laughed at my fascination for such a niche and arguably tenuous trend... and somehow the fact that I am an Aquarian came up in the discussion. Prior to this I didn't even know my star sign, but what if the stars do dictate one's sartorial choices? If so, it's very good news for any Aquarians this season, because there is a whole range of sea life floating across the catwalks.

It started during Milan Fashion Week with a very literal interpretation by Versace, but we must admit that we didn't think we'd see the diamante seahorses and starfish elsewhere on the international catwalks. However, a matter of days later we turned up at the Grand Palais for the Chanel show, only to be confronted by a blindingly white underwater world, with giant coral, shells, seahorse and stingrays adorning the impressive set (not to mention the clam that Florence Welch emerged from, Venus-like, to sing her hit 'What The Water Gave Me'.) It turns out Karl had been musing on the ancient forms of the sea ? hence the conch-shell clutches (or were they just shells?) To be honest, whatever works ? because it was one of Chanel's most astonishing, light, young, cool and breathtakingly beautiful RTW shows in recent memory, with a delicious sorbet palette and brilliant finishing touches, such as the pearl piercings dotted on the on nose, chin and in the hair of many of the models.

The artistic and creative interpretation of marine life continued at Alexander McQueen, where Sarah Burton wrought beautiful jellyfish hems in apricot degrade, and dramatic coral embellishment on floor-length gowns. My water-carrying instincts as an Aquarian, which had lain dormant for so long, were by now fired up, and every collection made maritime metaphors pop into my head. That dark purple at Prabal? Definitely a direct reference to the deadly Portuguese Man o' War (see below). [Note that our writer, Rupert, is from England, and thus believes that all Australian animals are deadly.]

And how about those fish-scale sequins at Givenchy? So, I think it is only fair to extend this trend to Pisceans ? after all, apparently I'm 'right on the cusp' myself, whatever that means. Having had a dip into the waters of astrology I'm quite relieved it's all nonsense, but it certainly provides an interesting way of divining future trends. Next month: Taurus.

Words: Rupert Bickersteth

Oystermag