London Fashion Week Review: Topshop Unique, Acne & Paul Smith
It Girls, white-on-white, and immaculate blazers.
Topshop Unique showed this afternoon to its largest ever online audience with over 2 million people streaming the show online. In London, however, it showed to a front row of It Girls: Daisy Lowe, Leigh Lezark, and Harley Viera-Newton were all in attendance. White was the key colour, and the likes of Cara Delevingne (above) and Jordan Dunn modelled a collection that was very pared-back: classic shapes and wearable separates. Not necessarily what one wants from Topshop — they have the ability to really pump out the hits — but then Unique, the designer line, is traditionally more low-key. Derek Blasberg (who is looking very dapper ATM) said post-show: "It was kind of salt and pepper, [and] I loved Marc Jacobs — that was also salt and pepper … the designers are putting the mod in modern [this season]."
Acne followed Topshop, and unfortunately it also fell a little flat. Designer Jonny Johansson sent a tight collection down the runway, but apart from the soundtrack and the occasional pop of colour, it didn't really deliver. The fabrics — crushed linens, washed silks, and leather — were interesting when paired together, and the colour palette? Well, white is going to be big this season — perhaps a reaction to the ubiquitous prints of seasons past? Those elements aside, Jonny mixed voluminous skirts which slogan tees, offbeat tailoring and ruching. It was interesting, but it didn't have the 'Must Have That Now' vibe the brand usually nails so well.
The Paul Smith presentation was a burst of colour on an otherwise dull day. Crimson red, bottle green, mustard yellow and royal blue, marched down the catwalk in sporty fabrics that were cut into flowing dresses and neat tailoring. The waistlines were high, the shirts had mismatched fabric panels, and the blazers — immaculate. It was country club tennis meets jockey-inspired outfits and it worked. (PS: We met with Paul in his studio on Friday. Stay tuned for the interview!)